stoked.

A part of me wishes I did a trip like the one i just did ages earlier but think if I had, i wouldn't have reaped the same benefits. At any point before in my life, I think life was still too raw for me to truly get outside of myself and my head, and enjoy the moment i was in - to not worry where it fit in the greater scheme of things.

I met great people, unengaging and dry people and people I won't see or talk to again but appreciated the time we shared. I met people I hope will grow
to be a part of my life in some way..a penpal or lifelong friend, only time will tell.

There was also the requisite 'vacation crush'. An intriguing and charming combination of 1 part lawyer, 1 part surfer and a 100% free and endearing spirit. And those eyes.

I am proud of every single nick, cut, scrape and bruise I came home with and am even more proud (though still embarrassingly horrified) when I watch the video of my efforts to catch a wave and ride the line. I challenged myself physically and as I think about it more, mentally and emotionally too. As someone who at some point in her life developed the bad habit of bailing when things got tough, i somehow managed to avoid doing so this time around.

so stoked. so utterly stoked.